Hampi Shanti Shanti
7 times the earth revolved on it’s axis since I beamed into Hampi. Yet I’m quite sure that time hasn’t moved at all. Hampi breaths slowly and deeply, Shanti Shanti.
Hampi Hampi! ‘Wake up’, prodded the furry eared bus attendant. Sleepily gazing out the window I might as well have still been dreaming. Low lit ruins graced the side of the road. As we pulled into the bus station my eyes fell on a small town that lives amongst its history.
The ruins at Hampi date from the 14th- 16th C; the Vijayanagar empire of the time one of the greatest in Indian history. Smack in the middle of Hampi Bazaar is the Virupaksha temple still very much in use. I opted to stay across the other side of the river, transported daily in a Coracle, a small round woven tub.
Hampi’s ruins do not rival those of Angkor (still so fresh in my mind) but the surreal bolder stacked landscape set them off like a dreamscape. I met Julian, Aila and Magdalena on my first morning and we clicked into a strong friendship. That first morning we ambitiously climbed to the top of the Hanaman (Monkey) Temple’s 400 stairs lined with monkeys. This vantage point impressed on me that India really is very, very big.
My antibiotics had kicked in and I was feeling much better than when I left Anjuna. This first night had a gentle rumble pulsing through it. The origin – festivities celebrating the engagement of Shiva and Parvatti. Pilgrims rolled into the main temple grounds and Magda and I followed. Inside the courtyard was dramatically lit by hundreds of candles tended to by busy children. Marked and blessed by the temple priest we sat like everyone else, but drawing more attention than we would have liked. A blond haired girl and tall white guy with camera has a conspicuous effect. The rolling, wailing music and full moon added to the utter atmosphere.
On the Hampi Bazaar side of the river we explored the ruins that the town is built on. Even the bank and school occupy the structures of their ancients. At the Virupaksha temple the temple elephant blessed us with its trunk when offered a 1rp coin. We ate that night at the Mango Tree, down through a banana plantation guided by moonlight.
Julian especially has a Shanti Shanti disposition which I loved. But while he and Aila we happy chillin, Magda and I took some bikes for a ride around the greater sights and ruins that took in the Zanaman complex. Through some small towns we excited the local children just by our presence, and were buzzed in turn by the ramble of the local atmosphere. We explored the Pattabhirama temple at sunset and dropped down some steps to feel around the pitch black rooms occupied by bats.
NY eve day we relaxed by a freshwater lake from hearabouts, but not free from softdrink sellers. By night some of us drunk back Bhang Lassi, some of us Magda’s German firewater. Because of its religious significance, Hampi is a dry area. But you’d be surprised what can appear out of the cellar with the right persistance persuasion. A big NY night’s drinking was had Indian style.
Come 7 days in Hampi I had been active and inactive in equal measure. Sites were seen, Chillum was smoked with Baba’s, and Carrom (Indian counter flicking game) was adopted as a time passer. Hampi Shanti Shanti, peace, slowly.
Untitled-project RSS