Summer lovin
Once again I’m reeling with catchup posts, so heres a bit of an August round up. Put it down to making the most of summer 
I’m not adverse to summer’s heat if there’s a cool place to dip your feet. For about 6 weeks straight Naomi and I headed to the Nagara river to swim under the gaze of Gifu-castle atop Kinka mountain. We’d ride my bike out there, Naomi doubling on the back and laden with beach stuff. Occasionally we make an evening of it and spark up a BBQ and crack a few Asahi’s with friends. And then come night fall the cormorant fishing boats come drifting down the river.
Cormorant fishing has a 1300 year tradition on the Nagara river. In summer when dusk turns to night Ukai fisherman drift with the current down the river in search of the sweet fish (Aiu). But rather than bother with rods, cormorant birds are leashed together and dive for the fish for their masters. Rings around their necks prevent the birds from swallowing the lot for themselves. A burning fire (Kagaribi) hangs over the boat attracting the sweet fish. These drifting, flaming traditional boats are an enchanting trip back in time.
Since I used to live close to the Nagara river I’ve seen the cormorant fishing more than a few times. Tourists can take a spectator boat out (I have), but I think the best view is from shore when the Ukai boats briefly pull in. Apparently there used to be plenty more fish in the river but a dam somewhere upstream has dramatically impacted on breeding a fish numbers. Japan, it is clear, has an addiction to concrete.
The Nagara river also hosts back to back fireworks (hanabi) festivals in August. They are a huge event and depending who you talk to they are the biggest in Gifu Prefecture, in Japan, or in the whole world. Gifu city clogs up with visitors from all around town most dressed in either summer Jinbei’s or the much cooler looking Yukatta . I just had to look the part so I bought my Yukatta and had the department store staff tie me up in it so I could hardly walk. I surprised Naomi, who, naturally, was wearing hers. We clipcloped down to the river banks in our Geta and Seta along with a hundred thousand others.
You’ve all seen fireworks before so I’ll spare you a description of exploding kaleidoscopic colours. Photos never do them justice. So please take my word that these two festivals were BIG, LOUD and pretty.
For something completely different: baseball. I was lucky enough to be offered a ticket to go with my Japanese friend Kazu to check out the Chunichi Dragon vs Tokyo Giants at the Nagoya dome. The Dragons from Nagoya are running hot this season and look like going all the way. The Dragons took the game 4-2 but sadly none went over the fence. We had a sweet time – the Japanese are good supporters, there’s lots of noise and music and atmosphere, quite unlike the stereotype unanimated Americans I often see sucking back dogs on ESPN. Oh, and don’t bother leaving your seat, beer just comes straight to you in the stands! Great day out, and I got back to Gifs in time to see Naomi’s gig.
Just on the quiet I’ve been frequenting a few baseball batting cages and quietly rate myself. What started out as a half cricket / half golf swing is now quite effective. 140km/h is fast.
*photos in Photolog: Japan > Gifu
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